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We’ve been living full time in our truck camper for the past 2 years as we’ve traveled throughout North America. It is a poor region of the country's poorest state. “But I’m still just as sexy.”Duwayne Burnside was on fire. “Excuse me, ma’am,” she said, “want another slice of that pie?”Bigger cities in the South—Memphis, Austin, New Orleans—have laid claims to musical greatness, but block for block, tiny Clarksdale beats them hands down.
Today it consists of parcels of smaller farms with crops like cotton, peanuts and soy. Bessie Smith breathed her last at what is now the Riverside Hotel.

The heritage of the Deep South is celebrated here in various ways: music, food, and architecture, whether of the antebellum or tar-paper variety. Guess you just had to be there.For my last breakfast, the Zeleskeys baked cheddar-cheese biscuits and served them to me as I sat in a swing on their front porch. Advocate Editorial. We’ve been from Florida to Alaska to Baja and nearly everywhere in between in our pursuit of Abundant Life.Join us in our journey as we hope to inspire you to pursue Abundant Life on the road!Anyone from Mississippi will tell you that the Mississippi Delta has a very special feeling to it.

(Elvis Presley’s father served time there.) It turned out that the sisters were also fans of Duwayne Burnside, the musician I’d heard back in Clarksdale. It’s also the setting for America’s most elaborate tailgate parties. The crossroads of Highways 61 and 49 is where bluesman Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul to Satan. “He plays the clubs here now and then,” Brittany said.On autumn Saturdays when Vaught-Hemingway Stadium is packed with 65,000 whooping fans, it may be tough to associate Oxford with anything but football.

Since the Rebels weren’t playing on my visit, my hosts steered me instead to the town’s central square, bounded on four sides by coffeehouses, bars, and shops that stock the sort of Ole Miss merchandise guaranteed to make any former homecoming queen happy. Its tens of thousands of volumes include autographed copies of works by southern authors like Eudora Welty.“How did you get your nickname?” I asked him.Searching for authentic American culture? The Mississippi Delta runs from Vicksburg in the South to Memphis in the North and stretches miles east of the Mississippi River.

The University of Mississippi, or Ole Miss, was a key antisegregation battleground during the 1960’s civil rights movement and is now home to the Center for the Study of Southern Culture (CSSC), which documents the region’s touch points, from racial integration to county fairs.

“Maybe I’ll book him for the Juke Joint Festival,” he said.The Zeleskeys grew up in Texas but decided to stick around after graduation to manage the three-bedroom guest bungalow that their parents bought and renovated so they could have a place to stay during gridiron season. Ike Turner was a native son.
The Zeleskey sisters, both recent grads, run a brisk sideline as pregame squatters; fans slip them big bucks to stake out real estate in the Grove, a 10-acre campus lawn where tents pop up on game day complete with groaning buffet tables, full bars, and flat-screen TV’s.The locals sitting behind me were enjoying themselves immensely, not paying particularly close attention to the artichoke-and-crab dip being prepped on the stove top up front.

Find it in the Mississippi Delta, where three small towns embrace and redefine their long-standing traditions.“Why in heaven’s name doesn’t this guy have a recording contract?” I shouted.Oh well. From the Depression on, this Mississippi Delta town has been the heartbeat of the blues.