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Via Ferrata Gloves – Black Diamond Crag.

• Tie a figure eight on a bight at one end of the cord,the bight should be ~20cm (8inches). Double this over into a large bight with one tail end about 60 cm longer than the other (this will be the piece you tie into at the end).

Purcell Prusiks are generally tied using 5mm to 8mm cord. That is hard to answer. This here will be a quick size guide or an insider on Converse’s shoe sizing. History: The Prusik Knot was developed in 1931 by Dr.Karl Prusik (sometime president of the Austrian Mountaineering Club and often misspelled “Prussik”.) Firstly, the prusik knot will slip under a large shock load, thus dampening the impact. )  In my case I will be using a rapid.  Attach the other end of the sling to an ascender of any sort and attach it to a hanging rope.  Slide the ascender up so you are able to sit in your harness and hang from the ascender.  Stretch and reach about as high as you can with one arm.  Make it a comfortable fully extended stretch not an all out give it all you got stretch.  Measure from the lower end of the sling up to the tip of your thumb. Placing the joining knot at the end or near the end of the tether has trade offs.  I want the best of both worlds so I do not like this configuration.  The amount of cord you need may be different if you use different cord.  Both diameter and pliability will effect this.  If you use a different cord you will need to experiment a little to get it right.  Below are the lengths needed for the cords I have played with.The tether can be adjusted from maximum to minimum length in any increment needed.  Just slide the Prusik where you want it and you're all set.The natural reaction when you fall is to reach out and and grab something.  Having the double loop side attached to the harness then grabbing the knot during a fall would result in the knot sliding and lengthening the leash.  This can't happen if the single loop side is attached to the harness.Finish up the double fisherman's by cinching it down tight and get it dressed well.  Be sure you have 1.5 inch tails before you fully load and tighten the knot.  Place a foot in the loop and pull the other side with both hands very hard and get the knot real tight.Read the section below for more on this.Purcell Prusiks are generally tied using 5mm to 8mm cord.  Purcell prusiks tied with small cord are less bulky and easier to manage but have lower breaking strengths.  As noted above testing with purcell prusiks shows shock loads created from falls up to 51 inches with test dummies and steel plates can generate forces of 5kN to 6kN.  In general it is best to keep the breaking strength of what cord you use higher than 6kN.The picture above shows the tether hooked to the harness properly.  This is where the single loop end is attached to the harness and the double loop end has a carabiner on it to use as an attachment to other things.Content is protected by copyright and may not be distributed without permission from BluuGnome.com.An adjustable tether makes things a lot safer when used properly!To adjust the length of the tether just grab the Prusik Knot and slide it to where you want it.Now dress and tighten the prusik knot.  While tightening the prusik keep the double fisherman knot tight up against the bridge of the prusik.  This will likely be the most tedious part of the entire process.  Take your time doing this and get it tight.  Since the double fisherman knot is to be right next to the bridge you will need to keep shifting excess cord from the fisherman end of the prusik and feed it all the way around the knot to the other side in order to tighten the prusik.To determine the length of cord you need....A friend is a great tool to help out with this.  You will be measuring from the lower end of the sling not all the way down to the harness or the rapid.  This is the length you will need for your tether when it is fully extended.  If the tether gets fully extended while in use, you will still be able to reach the end when needed.No matter what cord you choose there is one very effective way to significantly reduce the forces on your purcell prusik safety tether....... Use it properly!  One of the virtues of the purcell prusik is its adjustability.  When using the purcell prusik as a tether ALWAYS shorten the safety tether when you are clipped in to something.  Remember the large forces in all those tests were generated with shock loads from falls of 31 to 51 inches.  If you clip in then shorten the safety tether until there is little to no slack left in the system, you will only be able to fall a few inches.Some cords offer breaking strengths of up to 13kN.  Keep in mind high strength is not the only consideration for a purcell prusik cord.  Cords that are more stiff will require prusik knots with more wraps to in order to prevent accidental slipping making a larger, bulkier less manageable tether.Tying the purcell prusik with my preferred configuration makes it difficult to adjust the length of the tether while it is being made.  So having the exact cord length before you start is helpful. I prefer the length of my tether to be 33 inches when fully extended.  Hooking one end to the harness with a rapid gives the right length for me and my particular harness.  Everyone and their gear will be slightly different, so take a minute to measure yours.After creating a complete loop from your cord you will tie the prucell prusik and need to decide where the joining knot is placed in your completed Purcell Prusik Tether.  Some sources instruct to place the the joining knot somewhere near the end of the tether away from the prusik knot.  However, doing this can reduce the versatility of your tether.  Placing the knot near the very end will allow for a greater range of adjustability but will prevent the tether from being used as an emergency ascender.